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Frequently Asked Questions (FAq)
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All generators should be marked on the faceplate where you plug in. However, some are not. With the generator OFF, use a continuity tester: Place one prong in the neutral side of the 120-volt receptacle (larger slot) and one on the frame in a good clean location, like a bolt, but not on the paint of the frame. Do you get continuity? If you do, your neutral is bonded to the frame. Alternately, you can use an electric plug-in outlet tester with the generator running. If it shows open neutral, you have a floating neutral generator. Want to learn more? Watch our video: What’s the Difference Between a Bonded and Floating Neutral Generator?

No, the switch is for individual circuits that the consumer feels are essential during a power failure. This is the most economical way to energize “just what you need”. A “whole house” transfer switch of the manual style would cost approximately $900 for the product alone not inclusive of installation and additional parts needed to make the transfer complete.

Absolutely not. Listed transfer switches do not back feed.

Electrically, it does not get any easier. Install it at your electrical panel or install it at right alongside of your desired application or anywhere in between.

Neutral carries the UN-balance of a load back to the source and therefore always has current on it. There is an exception to this, however it does not apply here so we will not discuss it. The ground is there for “fault current” and has no current on it UNLESS there is a problem. It is a mechanical bond to prevent you from receiving a shock.

Its seeing a path or leakage to ground on either the hot leg side or the neutral side or both. The GFCI will not allow its neutral to be connected with another neutral that has been grounded. The EZ Generator Switch transfers both neutrals and hot legs, which will avoid your GFCI from tripping.

Each generator must be properly grounded as per manufacturers recommendations. 

Follow these steps to connect the EZ Generator Switch:

  1. Place your EZ Generator Switch into the “Generator Power” position.
  2. Install properly sized extension cord into inlet.
  3. Start your generator and let it warm up.
  4. Plug extension cord into your generator.

Follow these steps to disconnect power from your generator. NEVER shut your generator off while your load is connected:

  1. Unplug your cord from your generator.
  2. Unplug your cord from the EZ Generator Switch.
  3. Shut off your generator.
  4. Place EZ Generator Switch into “Normal Power” position.
We always recommend it installed by a qualified person with the knowledge of the task at hand.

Absolutely not. Listed transfer switches do not back feed.

EZ Generator Switch is compatible with any system that is operated from 120-volts.

There is no limit on the amount of EZ Generator Switches you may install. Your generator size will determine the load you can energize. E-mail us for specific questions.

Each application is different. You need to determine what is essential and the total running amps or wattage of each circuit. Then, it is just simple math to determine your generator size: 120 volts x ampere rating listed = wattage.

We add 125% for motor start up, this is the initial draw your generator will see:

Example:
120 volts x 3 amps (listed on nameplate of motor) = 360 watts running power.
125% x 360 watts = 450 watts.
Add the original 360 watts plus 450 watts = 810 watts of startup power.

Yes, please contact us and we will determine the correct wiring. 

The exposed blades are never live when there is no extension cord attached. Only when your extension cord is connected, are those blades energized and at that point they are covered.